Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, has become one of the most popular ingredients in skincare, and we understand why! Here's everything you want to know about using niacinamide – and why you add this multifunctional superstar to your routine ASAP!

By Maria Ahlgren, co-founder and skin expert at Common Clouds

Niacinamide - or vitamin B3 - is a water-soluble vitamin that has been shown to be exceptionally effective in improving skin health and appearance.

In my profession as a beauty journalist and former beauty editor, I have often referred to niacinamide as the ‘Swiss army knife of skincare’ for its many clever features that can make skin life easier for almost everyone! Is there anything niacinamide can't do, I've often asked myself.

But what makes niacinamide so great, and who can benefit from including it in their skincare routine? Let's take a closer look!

 

What is niacinamide?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, an essential nutrient that plays a crucial role in many biological processes in the body. In food, vitamin B3 is found in several cereals, oats, dry yeast and meat, but the niacinamide we use in skincare is synthetically lab-made and completely vegan.

In skincare, niacinamide is used for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and moisturising properties. It's a stable and easy-to-use ingredient that works great in combination with other active ingredients, making it a versatile team player in most skincare routines.

The many benefits of niacinamide

1. Reduces redness and inflammation
   Niacinamide is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it ideal for people with sensitive or irritated skin, and for conditions such as rosacea or acne. Niacinamide can help to soothe the skin and reduce redness.
   
   
2. Improves skin barrier function
   If you know Common Clouds, you know that we're all about a healthy barrier Niacinamide helps to strengthen the skin's barrier by increasing the production of ceramides, which are important for maintaining the skin's moisture balance and protecting against external stresses. This makes the skin more resilient and less prone to drying out. A strong barrier that can withstand external stress is essential for skin with inflammatory conditions, such as acne or rosacea.
   
   

3. Regulates sebum levels
   For those with oily or acne-prone skin, niacinamide can have a wide range of positive effects. Niacinamide helps to balance sebum production, which can reduce the appearance of pimples. For the same reason, niacinamide can also reduce the visibility of enlarged pores!

4. Reduces hyperpigmentation
   Niacinamide has been shown to be effective in clarfifying and evening out skin tone by regulating melanin production. This makes it a great ingredient for those struggling with post-acne marks or uneven skin tone. Niacinamide also makes skin look clearer. It's no wonder niacinamide was a key player in the "glass skin" craze!
   
   
5. Boosts skin elasticity
   Niacinamide is a great ingredient for all ages - including mature skin. It boosts collagen production and improves skin elasticity, making skin look smoother and more bouncy. The vitamin's antioxidant properties also protect the skin against damage from free radicals and environmental pollutants, which is beneficial for skin of all ages.

 

Who is niacinamide suitable for?

One of the main benefits of niacinamide is that it is suitable for ALL skin types, including sensitive, dry, oily and combination skin. Because it is gentle and non-irritating, it can be used by most people without risk of side effects.

Dry skin: Niacinamide helps to strengthen the skin barrier and increase skin moisture levels, making it ideal for dry and dehydrated skin.
Oily and acne-prone skin: Thanks to its sebum-regulating properties, niacinamide is great for controlling oil production and reducing acne breakouts.
Sensitive skin: The calming effect of niacinamide makes it ideal for people with sensitive or reactive skin, as it can help reduce irritation and redness.

How do I use niacinamide?

Niacinamide is found in different types of skincare products, such as serums, creams and toners. It's best to start with a low concentration, around 2-5%, especially if you have sensitive skin.

If you have acne-prone, sensitive skin, 4% niacinamide is the perfect dose, and you'll find it in our soothing Cloud Jelly gel moisturiser. Cloud Jelly also contains (panthenol) vitamin B5, ceramides, hyaluronic acid and centella to moisturise, soothe and reduce redness.

You can use niacinamide both morning and evening.

How do I combine niacinamide with other ingredients?

Niacinamide is a real team player that works well in combination with other active ingredients, such as salicylic acid, azelaic acid, vitamin C and retinol.

Some of our favourite combinations with niacinamide are:

Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide - A great combo for balancing oily, acne-prone skin. Cloud Water and Cloud Jelly is THE dream duo for tackling breakouts, enlarged pores and excess oil.

Azelaic acid + niacinamide - A great duo for those who want to work on redness, acne and stubborn post-acne marks. Cloud Milk + Cloud Jelly is a daily favourite couple for many in the Common Clouds team to reduce breakouts and reduce flare-ups associated with acne and rosacea.

Salicylic Acid + Azelaic Acid + Niacinamide - A trio for those who really want to work on multiple skin conditions and issues, such as acne, oiliness and hyperpigmentation, and at the same time soothe and re-balance skin.

Niacinamide + retinol - A duo that boosts skin collagen and makes skin smoother and clearer.

Salicylic acid + azelaic acid + niacinamide + retinol - Now we're talking RESULTS! These four superstars work on a variety of skin conditions. Smoothing, breakout-busting, redness-soothing, bounce-buildning, clarfifying – you name it!

If you are super-sensitive or new to acids or retinol, you shouldn't start using them at the same time. Instead,try "skin cycling", where you use salicylic acid and retinol every other day, or morning and evening. Niacinamide can freely be combined with everything!

Can I be allergic to niacinamide?

In theory, we can be allergic to anything.

However, niacinamide is an ingredient that is tolerated by most people, and is a popular choice in skincare products and dermatological products for inflamed and sensitive skin.

However, if you use niacinamide in very high doses, you may experience a so-called ‘niacinamide flush’ where the skin temporarily flares up and reddens. This can happen if, for example, you use several products with niacinamide at the same time, or a product with a very high concentration. At Common Clouds, we don't use higher than a 4% concentration since we want to avoid you getting a so-called ‘niacinamide flush’ or reaction. 4% is the perfect dose where you get all the amazing results without irritation!

If you experience severe redness and heat, you are likely to have an allergic reaction and should discontinue use immediately. This applies to all skincare products.

Sometimes we quickly conclude that it is the ‘known’ active ingredient in a product that we have reacted negatively to, but it may be something else in the formula that your skin cannot tolerate. 

Can niacinamide cause breakouts?

Niacinamide does not have a cell-renewing effect, and therefore cannot give a so-called ‘purge’, that is associated with exfoliating acids and retinol at the beginning of use when cell renewal kicks. From these products, a purge is a good sign that changes are happening in your and that you will get the results you're hoping for the other side’!

With that being said, some people can initially react with minor breakouts when introducing a new skincare products. You always have to allow a good couple of weeks to pass before evaluating a skincare product. Skincare is a waiting game!

If you find that you get pimples against niacinamide, it may be because your skin is hypersensitive to some other ingredient in the formulation - it does not necessarily have to be the niacinamide! Niacinamide is a very well-tested anti-inflammatory ingredient for acne and other conditions.

It could also be that the percentage is too high for your skin's liking. As mentioned earlier, high levels can be irritating.

Keep this in mind though!
Sometimes when we try new skincare products, we get pimples and quickly conclude that some active skincare ingredient is the culprit. But a sudden outbreak of pimples can have several possible causes, such as:

• Hormonal changes, such as where you are in your menstrual cycle, pregnancy, menopause or during phases of puberty.
• Change of climate - e.g. if we travel to a hot, humid climate, or during a change of weather when the skin becomes very dry and overcompensates with increased sebum production.
• Prolonged stress, poor sleep, illness or medication, such as antibiotics, which also temporarily affect the skin.
• Changes in dietary habits.
• New make-up products with clogging ingredients, unwashed make-up brushes or other new skincare products with clogging ingredients can be the culprit. It's not  necessarily the niacinamide – in fact, it's quite unlikely that niacinamide is the bearer of breakouts – no matter what TikTok says.

To sum it up!

Niacinamide is a versatile skincare ingredient that offers a wide range of benefits for most skin types! Whether you want to reduce redness, improve skin barrier, balance sebum production, prevent pimples, reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation or reduce signs of ageing, niacinamide is an effective addition to your skincare routine. It is an ideal ingredient for beginners and skincare veterans alike!

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xx

Maria