As we all know, dealing with acne is mentally taxing, but dealing with the aftermath can be equally – or even more – challenging. Long after a pimple is gone, it can leave behind the memory we never asked for...
Fortunately, there's a whole plethora of skincare and treatments that can fade even the most stubborm of post-blemish marks.
In this article, we'll go through the different types of post-blemish marks and scars, and how to treat them.
By Maria Ahlgren, co-founder and Beauty Director
WHAT'S THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF POST-ACNE SCARS?
The memories left behind by our breakouts come in many forms. Understanding the different types of post-blemish marks and scarring, such as Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE) and Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) is essential to know how to treat them. Let's go through them!
POST-INFLAMMATORY ERYTHEMA (PIE) – The red ones
What they look like? PIE are red, pink or purple flat marks left on the skin after inflamed pimples. Unlike some other types of scarring, PIE does not involve changes in pigment. They are most common in lighter skin tones.
Why do I get them? The redness is a result of dilated blood vessels in the affected area, close to the skin surface.
How do I treat them? The first, crucial step is to avoid picking your pimples. Picking your pimples aggravates the inflammation and increases the risk of scarring. Use a pimple patch on your active breakouts to allow your skin to heal in peace, and to protect skin from picking which prevents scarring from happening in the first place.
To fade PIE, look for redness-reducing, repairing and anti-inflammatory ingredients:
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CENTELLA – Centella is known to not only calm redness and promote wound-healing, but can also help to strengthen the capillary environment. At Common Clouds, we adore centella, and includes it in most of our skincare. For you post-blemish skincare routine, make sure to include centella every day to get you skin back on track. In Moon Balm, you'll find it along redness-busting super-stars like purslane and a very mild retinol that is clinically shown to reduce erythema.
Find it in: Cloud Water Gentle Exfoliating BHA Toner, Cloud Milk Soothing Redness-Relief Serum and Moon Balm Deeply Hydrating Moisturiser
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AZELAIC ACID – A MUST to fade redness, hyper-pigmentation and post-blemish marks – both PIE and PIH! Azelaic Acid also helps to calm inflammation and improve cell turnover, so skin looks visibly more even in both texture and tone. It's also effective in preventing new breakouts, so you minimise the risk of post-inflammatory marks in the first place. Our redness-relief serum Cloud Milk combines 10% azelaic acid with 2% centella extract, making it a magic potion for anyone looking to fade unwanted memories of pesky pimples. Use it once or twice daily after cleansing and exfoliating, before moisturisig.
Find it in: Cloud Milk Soothing Redness-Relief Serum
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BHA (SALICYLIC ACID) – All exfoliating acids increases cell turnover, which promotes a more even skin tone and texture. Salicylic Acid is also a natural anti-inflammatory, which makes it ideal for blemish-prone skin. Cloud Water includes both 2% salicylic acid and extracts from centella and licorice that help to dial down redness. Use Cloud Water at least 3 times per week, or more often if your skin tolerates it.
Find it in: Cloud Water Gentle Exfoliating BHA Toner
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NIACINAMIDE – Niacinamide is a multi-tasking skin wizard with a magic ability to do almost anything – from balancing acne-prone skin and stimulating collagen to boosting barrier function and reducing redness.
Find it in: Cloud Light Fluid Daily Mattifying Face Cream
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TREATMENTS – To fast-track the healing process, we love IPL treatments.
SKINCARE ROUTINE FOR SKIN WITH PIE
- Cleanse twice daily with Cloud Wash
- 3-5 times/week, exfoliate with Cloud Water
- Morning and night, use Cloud Milk Serum.
- Follow with Moon Balm (if you have combination to dry skin) or Cloud Light Fluid (if you have oily skin).
- Always use SPF daytime, even when you think you don't need to ;)
- Wear pimple patches on any active breakouts to avoid picking.
POST-INFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENTATION (PIH) – The dark ones
What they look like? PIH are the dark or brown marks that are left behind after inflamed acne breakouts. They can vary in intensity, ranging from light brown to deep black, depending on factors such as skin tone and the severity of the inflammation. They are most common in darker skin tones.
Why do I get them? When skin is injured or inflamed, the skin overproduces melanin, the pigment responsible for skin colour.
How do I treat them? Again, not picking your pimples is essential. Picking your pimples can worsen the inflammation and increases the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Use a pimple patch on your active breakouts to allow your skin to heal in peace, and to protect skin from picking which prevents scarring from happening in the first place. If you're prone to PIH, daily sunscreen (at least SPF30) is a must!
To fade PIH, look for melanin-inhibiting, repairing and anti-inflammatory ingredients:
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BHA (SALICYLIC ACID) – All exfoliating acids increases cell turnover, which promotes a more even skin tone as old skin cells are replaced by new ones. Salicylic Acid is also a natural anti-inflammatory, which makes it ideal for blemish-prone skin. Cloud Water includes both 2% salicylic acid and licorice extract, which has a brightening effect. Use Cloud Water at least 3 times per week, or more often if your skin tolerates it.
Find it in: Cloud Water Gentle Exfoliating BHA Toner
- AZELAIC ACID – A rockstar for skin with hyper-pigmentation and post-blemish marks. Azelaic Acid inhibits melanin production, helps to calm inflammation and improves cell turnover, so skin looks visibly more even in both texture and tone. Make sure to use azelaic acid once or twice daily after cleansing and exfoliating, before moisturisig.
- Find it in: Cloud Milk Soothing Redness-Relief Serum
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RETINOL – Vitamin A-derivatives, like the one we use in Moon Balm, speeds up cell turnover, which means that old, hyper-pigmented skin cells are replaced with healthy, new skin cell babies.
Find it in: Moon Balm Deeply Hydrating Moisturiser
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NIACINAMIDE – In studies, niacinamide has shown melanin-inhibiting properites, making it a must in any skincare routine for skin prone to breakouts, redness and hyperpigmentation. In Cloud Light Fluid, we include the optimal 4% level.
Find it in: Cloud Light Fluid Daily Mattifying Face Cream
- OTHER INGREDIENTS: Tranexamic acid, vitamin C, arbutin, mandelic acid are other great ingredients to have om your radar if you're looking to bust hyperpigmentation or dark spots after breakouts.
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TREATMENTS – Professional skin therapists can help you with a treatment plan consisting of lasers or chemical peels. But in the wrong hands, some treatments may worsen the hyperpigmentation, especially in melanin-rich skin, so always do your research.
SKINCARE ROUTINE FOR SKIN WITH PIH
- Cleanse twice daily with Cloud Wash
- 3-5 times/week, exfoliate with Cloud Water
- Morning and night, use Cloud Milk Serum.
- Follow with Moon Balm (if you have combination to dry skin) or Cloud Light Fluid (if you have oily skin).
- Always use SPF daytime, even when you think you don't need to ;)
GOT SEVERE SCARRING?
Deep, cystic acne can damage skin tissue and collagen as your skin heals. Icepick scars, boxcar scars and rolling scars or raised scars are common, and needs to be looked at by a dermatologist or expert skin therapist. There are several treatment options, like chemical peels, laser resurfacing, microneedling or even dermal filler treatments, but it's important to make a treatment plan together with a professional.
If you have a family history of severe acne or scarring, it's important to seek professional advice even in the earlier stages of acne to prevent hard-to-treat scarring.
Hopefully, these tips can help you to avoid the long-living memories of the breakouts we want to forget ;)
And remember – don't pop your pimple, put a cloud on it!