Exfoliating your skin is an important key to maintaining a healthy, glowing complexion – especially if you're prone to acne. In this guide, we explore different exfoliating acids and how to find the right one for your skin type.

By Maria Ahlgren

Why is exfoliating your skin important?

There are several reasons why exfoliating your skin is crucial.

* Increases cell turnover – When you exfoliate regularly, your skin cells renew themselves at a faster rate. This means that old, dead skin cells (yikes!) are shed more quickly, making way for fresh new "baby skin cells" to rise to the surface, which will make your skin look smoother and clearer. As we age, our skin's cell turnover slows down, which can cause the skin to look dull and tired if we skip exfoliating.

* Makes you glow – This ties into the point above. Increased cell renewal leads to a more even tone and texture, which helps your complexion to reflect light in a way that enhances its glow. Exfoliation is also an important step in routines that targets uneven skin tone because of sun damage and hyperpigmentation.

* Minimises and prevents acne – Dead skin cells and excess oil that clog up in the pores serve as "food" for acne-causing bacteria, which can lead to an inflamed pimple. Therefore, it is important to exfoliate skin that is prone to congestion, blackheads, or breakouts. BHA acid is oil-soluble, meaning it can dissolve oil and acne-causing plugs in the pores, making it the best choice for acne-prone skin. However, AHA acids also provide some benefits by sloughing off dead skin cells.

* Prevents dryness – If there is a "shield" of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, it can prevent moisture and skincare products from effectively penetrating the skin. That’s why even those with dry skin should exfoliate at least once or twice a week to remove the outer layer of old skin cells, allowing skincare products to get to work and increase the skin's moisture levels.

There are different types of exfoliating acids with various uses, and they are often combined in products.

What types of exfoliating acids are there?

There are different types of exfoliating acids, and they are sometimes combined in a single product. The major "acid families" include:

• AHA Acids (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) – Such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. 
• BHA Acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid) – Usually salicylic acid. Oil-soluble, which means it can work deep within the pores. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for skin prone to acne or rosacea.
• PHA Acid (Polyhydroxy Acid) – Hydrates and gently dissolves dead skin cells.

AHA Acids – Best for glow and smoother skin

AHA acids boost essential cell renewal, which slows down with age. They're often found in products that address signs of aging such as fine lines, reduced firmness, dullness, sun damage, and rough skin texture. The most commonc AHAs are:

Glycolic Acid – Reaches the deepest layers of the skin among all AHA acids, making it highly effective for sun damage and signs of aging. However, glycolic acid also requires some caution because it is so potent and can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.

Lactic Acid – A very mild AHA acid that stays on the surface. A great choice for sensitive skin. It benefits the skin's pH level – think of it like sauerkraut for the skin!

Mandelic Acid – Derived from bitter almonds. Its combination of being gentle and having antibacterial properties makes it a great option for acne-prone skin.

BHA Acid – Best for acne-prone and oily Skin

BHA acid is the only oil-soluble acid, which means it can penetrate and dissolve excess oil trapped in pores. This makes it ideal for acne-prone skin, skin prone to blemishes or blackheads, and oily skin. Like other acids, BHA accelerates cell renewal, providing a smoother skin surface and a clearer skin tone.

BHA acid is also suitable for sensitive skin because it has anti-inflammatory properties. The most common BHA acid is salicylic acid, which you can find in the optimal concentration of 2% in Cloud Water.

How often should I exfoliate my skin?

How often you should exfoliate depends on your skin's starting point and needs, as well as how the rest of your routine looks. It's best to check the product instructions for how it is intended to be used.

You can use Cloud Water up to once a day, depending on your skin type, for example:

Oily/acne-prone – Up to once a day. Cloud Water is a very gentle and soothing BHA toner, so most people can use it daily.
Dry or sensitive – 2-3 times a week, at least initially.

It's important to start slowly and allow your skin to adjust, no matter what exfoliation method you choose!

What happens if I overexfoliate my skin?

Have you heard of the term "overexfoliation"? If you exfoliate too often or with too strong products, there's a risk that your skin's barrier may be weakened. This can make it easier for bacteria to take hold, leading to acne, dryness, increased sun sensitivity, and greater sensitivity overall.

It's important to check your products and not "cocktail mix" several different products with exfoliating acids. If you use, for example, a cleanser with acid, a toner with acid, a serum with acid, and a mask with acid, it will be too much for your skin. Pick your fighter! Find ONE exfoliating product to stay loyal to, or two if you alternate between different acids to meet your skin's various needs.

How do I know if I've overexfoliated my skin?

Surface dryness is a warning signal. If you've started a new product, it's normal to experience some dryness or perhaps more breakouts initially (a so-called purge, which you can read more about here), but if it continues and your skin feels thin, you should take a step back. 

When should I exfoliate in my routine?

Cloud Water BHA toner is applied as the first step after cleansing. This removes dead skin cells and prepares the skin to absorb as much of the following skincare products as possible. It also balances the skin's pH level.

It's up to you whether you apply the BHA toner with a cotton pad or pat it into the skin with your (clean!) hands. Since Cloud Water is oil-free, you can apply a Cloud Patch or Moon Patch directly on top!

I use acne medication. Can I exfoliate?

If you are on acne medication, you should always consult your dermatologist before introducing a new product. Many acne treatments increase skin cell turnover and sensitivity, so you should be cautious with cell-renewing skincare ingredients, including BHA, for a period to avoid over-exfoliation.

Is azelaic acid an exfoliating acid?

Azelaic acid has a very mild exfoliating effect but is not classified as one of the exfoliating acids. You can combine azelaic acid with all ingredients, including acids, without the risk of over-exfoliation. Cloud Water and Cloud Milk are a match made in heaven for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive and prone to redness!